Urban Alchemy. Or what cities might learn from old world cuisine.
Embracing the lessons of food history and the art of making the most of what we have, we can transform our urban landscapes into more dynamic, liveable and memorable spaces.
I’ve been re-reading a bit of Anthony Bourdain lately and something sorta struck me in the early chapters of "A Cook's Tour" where he highlights a fundamental truth about great food. Pretty much all the cuisine we adore, pine for, travel for, have fond memories of etc. comes from people and places that developed it through a culture of constraint.
Bourdain spent years writing and creating television celebrating how the likes of the French, Mexicans, Portuguese, Vietnamese, Thais, Italians, and such honed their food using all available ingredients, every bit of the animal, what plant was in season, even if it seemed not so desirable, to create delicious and memorable dishes.
He wrote and made television highlighting how for much of recent history American cuisine, influenced by an abundance of quality cuts and fast food culture often overlooked the potential of the less sexy ingredients, resulting in a less diverse and vibrant culinary landscape. That obviously has seriously changed in recent times, with much of Bourdain’s later shows telling the story of American chefs rediscovering the old ways and bringing them to a new and hungry audience interested in food.
The gist is this though. So much of what we love and find utterly delicious has been created through a culture of making the most of everything because food could be scarce. It’s basically alchemy and isn’t that really the true innovation? Seeing value where others don't, getting creative, reframing the thing.
“Pâté? Scraps and trimmings and fat, ground up, seasoned and decorated until somebody was interested in putting it in his mouth. Confit de Canard? I got no refrigerator and I got no freezer and all these damn duck legs are going bad!” - Anthony Bourdain
This philosophy of turning constraints into creativity applies remarkably well to urban development. The great cities of this world have been shaped by forces that have constrained. They perhaps grew long ago, are located in rather strategic places, likely experienced some form conflict, economic prosperity rose and fell during periods if not before the industrial revolution, but during its earlier stages before the car really became an item the masses could really afford.
Ultimately, these cities did not develop around the car. Mobility for most was likely on foot, horse, a bit later by bicycle or initial forms of mass transit. This meant density of populations, smaller dwellings, shared public spaces were necessity. They probably weren’t what we’d consider great places to live for many if I’m really honest … unless you were wealthy, but making the most of what they had was pretty important.
Fast forward to today, it is these places that have become places where people love to live, work and play … oh and visit. Bologna is a much more compelling city break than Bakersfield. Turin a place you’re more likely to rave about to your neighbours than Toronto.
North American cities, in contrast, spread like butter on a hot pancake, melting into wide roads, vast parking lots and sprawling suburbs. They’ve built themselves around the car, indulged in love of big spaces, in doing so lost something vital. In the pursuit of the home, the yard, the picket fence, they’ve forgotten how to make cities truly liveable.
The car and the suburbs scale for a little bit, but not on a constant. While it’s lovely to have our own little space in the world, we’re not here to live alone. That’s not really what cities are all about. The economics of them get harder when population density drops as those property taxes used to maintain infrastructure are spread over more miles of roads, pipes, wires, rails and such.
Toronto is kinda here. Once upon a time it might have been quite nice living in a big house in the suburbs, driving downtown for a steak dinner before the hockey game. Just that doesn’t really scale as the suburbs go further out, or people who decide to live in a condo downtown feel the need for a car to drive around the city. Cars are great, just like steak is delicious, but if you ate steak all the time you might not be in the greatest shape, so if you drive everywhere you create a sorta unhealthy city.
The Power of Constraints
So if we want to create great cities, we should take inspiration from the way great cuisines are crafted: by embracing the constraints and using every bit of space we have wisely. Constraints are good! They force us to think creatively, use resources wisely and find beauty and functionality in what might initially seem limiting.
1. Density and Mixed-Use Development: Cities have thrived by building upwards and inwards, integrating residential, commercial, and recreational spaces in close proximity. Not necessarily all about high rises, but also gentle density with more intelligent use of space, narrower streets and shared public spaces. This not only makes cities more walkable but also fosters a sense of community and vibrancy. By focusing on mixed-use development, less rigid zoning and higher density, North American cities can create more dynamic and connected urban environments.
2. Public Transportation: Many European and Asian cities have extensive and efficient public transportation networks. These systems reduce reliance on cars, decrease traffic congestion, lower carbon emissions and support active mobility. Investing in robust public transit can transform American cities, making them more accessible and sustainable. When you create a city that prioritises transit over cars, the environment for pedestrians and cyclists improves too. This is nothing new, and yet it’s still not universally embraced by too many cities.
3. Preservation and Adaptation: Constraints also encourage the preservation and adaptive reuse of existing structures. Instead of demolishing old buildings, many European cities find innovative ways to repurpose them, preserving historical character while meeting modern needs. American cities can benefit from this approach, fostering a sense of what makes them unique rather than becoming relatively homogeneous across the continent.
4. Green Spaces: Despite their density, many great cities incorporate ample green spaces, parks and communal areas that become important third spaces. These spaces offer residents a respite from urban life and contribute to overall well-being. Prioritising green spaces within urban planning can enhance the liveability of American cities.
So what?
The essence of greatness, whether in food or in cities, lies in making the most of what we have. Constraints aren’t limitations; they’re opportunities to innovate, to create and to transform. Just as the best dishes come from using every part of the ingredient, the best cities emerge from using every part of their potential, shaped by necessity, driven by creativity and come alive with the spirit of possibility.
We can build places that are not only functional but also vibrant, sustainable, and deeply enjoyable to live in. Just as great chefs transform humble ingredients into culinary masterpieces, we can transform our cities by thinking about how we maximise the use of everything at our feet.
Lacking enough space for cars? Well, maybe don’t have them in the recipe here and focus on what will fit the space, think bikes and buses. Don’t have the money to invest in an expensive new rail line? Then what smaller infrastructure tweaks can you make so buses can move large volumes of people quickly and comfortably.
Big towers overpowering the sense of scale and flavour of the neighbourhood, then how might low-rise density apply here? Where can we in-fill, how might we narrow down the use of street space that creates room for something else. It sounds so basic, but having great places to walk, sit, drink, eat, play, read is a better use of the public realm than parking a metal box.
Looking to get more people cycling and using those bike lanes? Create opportunities for people to try before they commit, sponsor spaces for people to safely store their bikes, or facilities freshen up before work. Host events for people learning to ride with confidence, maybe on a weekend when it might feel less intimidating.
Got a backlog of people with ideas caught up in regulatory purgatory? Zone pieces of the city as experimental kitchens for new ideas to see what works in reality, then create permission for what works based on experience rather than assumption.
We’ll be much happier, healthier, and likely wealthier as a result of all this. We’ll still drive cars, just like we still eat steaks and hamburgers, just maybe throw in some veal sweetbreads, in-season asparagus and a bowl of pho with extra bits of marrow for good measure.
“Cities are never random. No matter how chaotic they might seem, everything grows out of a need to solve a problem, to create a safe haven, to find ways to trade, share resources, gather together.” - Anthony Bourdain